DAY
ONE: THE LOOP, THE MAGNIFICENT MILE, AND MORE
With
less than 36 hours, we hit the ground running and went straight for Millennium
Park for the famed Anish Kapoor sculpture Cloud Gate,
which locals refer to as "The Bean." The beautiful, mirrored droplet
inspired by liquid mercury is wonderful for all ages and reflects the
surrounding skyline and architecture to dazzling effect. A twelve-foot high
arch beneath the piece makes for fun explorating. We could easily have spent
half the day exploring Millennium Park's Crown Fountain, Lurie Garden, and the
Frank Gehry-designed BP Bridge.
But
we were off to Art Institute of Chicago
to marvel at the permanent collections. We stopped for lunch in the Renzo
Piano-designed wing at Terzo Piano
— a minimalist, pure white space with a menu of mezzes, flatbreads, and
creative salads. Perfect museum fare. Well fed, we went back down Michigan
Avenue, stopping at various Walgreen's along the way. Yes, really. The concept
of the "drugstore" takes on a whole new meaning in Chicago, and at
select branches (like the one in the iconic Wrigley Building), we found fresh
sushi (complete with on-site chef!), pricey liquor, and treasures that made for
one-stop shopping in a gilt-trimmed setting.
After
we took the obligatory photos on the Chicago River bridge, we pushed on to the
shopping area that typifies the area they call "Gold Coast" for good
reason.
Magnificent Mile is packed with big-ticket designer boutiques
(Prada, Gucci, Hermes), and the adjoining streets have more accessible spots
like Sprinkles
Cupcakes on East Walton Street. For the uninitiated, this is a
confectionary concept that features a cupcake ATM that is restocked 24 hours a
day with a variety of insanely sweet treats for people. And dogs, too. This
was, by far, the highlight of Chicago, as far as our children were concerned.
Refueled
once again, we scouted other restaurants like Jellyfish (inventive
sushi in a glass atrium), Carmine's
(enormous portions of Italian red-sauce classics), and Hugo's Frog Bar
(terrible name; excellent seafood). Hugo's is a fun, nautically themed concept
for parents and kids alike. They serve huge plates of shrimp cocktail, planked
Lake Superior whitefish, and beautiful charbroiled burgers.
After
a lot of walking, eating, and drinking (we found coffee and tea shops on
virtually every corner, which was a nice way to combat Chicago's notorious
chill), we went back to The Peninsula
Hotel to relax. After
prying ourselves from the hotel, we went to Bistronomic, a
bustling bistro just around the corner, for dinner. Our was a
multi-generational group, and everyone found something on the menu. Delicious
terrines of tuna tartare, garlicky escargot, and crispy duck confit — all
French classics infused with modern flair. A huge Baked Alaska (keeping it
old-school) made for the perfect ending to a memorable meal and a packed day.
DAY TWO:
PANCAKES, DAVID BOWIE, AND A KICK-ASS AQUARIUM
Another
winner in the big food category is Pancake House, a
downtown breakfast staple that serves excellent omelets in a traditional, diner
ambience. From here, we went to Museum of
Contemporary Art to see the exhibit "David Bowie
Is." While this may not be the most kid-friendly content (what
with all the coke spoons, sex, and colorful language), the highly interactive
show features music, film footage, and outlandish costumes, including Ziggy
Stardust bodysuits and Alexander McQueen coats. This was the show's only North
American stop, and it was so worth a detour.
After
circling back to the hotel to pick up our complimentary Mini Cooper, we headed to Shedd Aquarium on the
other side of town. As it's one of the largest aquariums in the world, you'll
want to plan your visit in advance.
In
the name of research, we stopped by Foodlife in
Water Tower Place, a place that takes the food court concept to an entirely new
level. Foodlife is a collection of casual dining concepts within one main,
bustling space. Separate kitchens turn out excellent, fresh food that ranges
from sushi and inventive salads to signature Chicago deep-dish pizza. Dedicated
dessert areas serving custom-made crepes were the culinary highlight for the
younger members of our entourage.
If
time or weather had allowed, we would have taken a Chicago Architecture Foundation River
Cruise because it's the best way to learn about the city's rich
architectural history. Our next trip will also include a stop at Museum of Science and Industry to see
its U-505 German submarine from World War II, Omnimax Theatre, and mirror
mazes.
Our
last stop, Gibson's Bar
& Steakhouse, didn't disappoint for early dinner. This is
exactly the kind of food and atmosphere I expect from Chicago: enormous steaks,
wedge salads loaded with bacon and blue cheese, and Bookbinder's soup in a
warm, wood-paneled setting. The completely unpretentious meal was the perfect
end to our whirlwind weekend. We made our way to the airport feeling sated in
every way.
WHERE
TO STAY
The
Peninsula in
the heart of downtown Chicago tops my list. This particular outpost just gets
kids/tweens/teens. We were greeted at 9 p.m. by a dessert bar in the main
dining room that was Willy Wonka-esque in every way. Vats of candies,
make-your-own sundae bars, a waffle station, and chocolate bon-bons all made
for the perfect, warm Midwest welcome.
Our
spacious room was no less impressive, with its Fili D'oro linens, endless
amenities (stuffed animals, Oscar de La Renta creams, fresh fruit platters),
and sweeping views of Water Tower Park and the lake in the distance. Highlights
included a sprawling swimming pool — complete with glorious, twenty-foot
windows and plush robes — a Zen spa, and Shanghai Terrace, the hotel's dim sum
hotspot that's long on shrimp dumplings and has a red lacquer vibe. Add in a
small skating rink that's open during the winter months, and this spot is
pretty much kid nirvana.
Just
down the street you'll find the relatively new Thompson
Hotel, a Tara Bernerd-designed gem that features lots of warm
wood, modernist light fixtures, and living walls at every turn. In-house
restaurant Nico Osteria is worth
a stop for lunch or dinner and serves some of the best crudo and housemade
taglioni — not to mention biscotti and maple gelati — that I've tasted anywhere
(Italy included).
Also
worth mentioning: Park Hyatt,
Ritz Carlton Chicago
(now managed by Four Seasons), and a new Waldorf Astoria that
offers spacious rooms and suites, many of which are specifically designed to
accommodate families. All of these hotels are perfectly positioned for
exploring the stylish Gold Coast area, nearby Michigan Avenue, and the many
great restaurants located within a five-block radius.
*please note FTC has not been compensated to make any of the mentioned endorsements/recommendations*
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