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More skiers and snowboarders still choose to head to France than anywhere else. The reason is inescapable: the French Alps offer the best variety of resorts of any country in the world.
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Book your vacation through Family Travel Concierge - info@familytc.com
More skiers and snowboarders still choose to head to France than anywhere else. The reason is inescapable: the French Alps offer the best variety of resorts of any country in the world.
However, exorbitant prices – particularly in the big name
resorts – continue to test the loyalty of even the most ardent Francophile
skiers and snowboarders. Austria and Italy are much cheaper alternatives and
there’s a noticeable drift away from the French Alps by the more
budget-conscious.
Nevertheless, the main high season dates are fully
subscribed. Indeed, if you are planning a half-term break with your family you
need to book very well in advance. In 2015, February 14 to 21 is not only the
main week for school breaks in England and Wales, but also in two-thirds of France.
To add to the congestion on the slopes, the date coincides with holidays in
Belgium, Denmark, and The Netherlands.
Christmas, New Year and Easter are also already getting
booked up, although tour operators increasingly find it difficult to fill the
low season dates in January and March.
Here's our pick of where to
go…
Best
for beginners: Courchevel
Courchevel, famous for its glitz and multi-million
property prices, might at first glance seem an unusual choice for novices, but
the resort has many facets. Situated at one end of the giant Trois Vallées ski
area that includes Méribel and Val Thorens, its smartest and most expensive
village is Courchevel 1850. In more affordable Moriond (also known as 1650),
Village (1500), Le Praz and La Tania you will find much cheaper accommodations.
Moriond is ideal for beginners, with gentle nursery slopes well away from the
inter-resort traffic of the rest of the Trois Vallées. The beginner’s slopes
around the Altiport area of 1850 are also extremely good, with mild gradients
and easy lifts.
There’s a wide choice of ski and snowboard schools, but
learning from a native English speaker is an advantage, and these schools are
British run: BASS Courchevel, New Generation and Supreme Ski.
Parents needn't worry about inexperienced small children
on chairlifts during classes – special ski school waistcoats equipped with
magnets lock on to the chair and are released at the top.
Where to stay:
Le Ski has 21 chalets in
Moriond and neighbouring La Tania and 30 years experience in offering holidays
here. Bellevue is a contemporary chalet apartment in the new Aspen Lodge
complex with views across to 1850; it sleeps four in two bedrooms.
Alternatives: Alpe d'Huez, Morzine, and Val Cenis are great choices; all
have dedicated nursery slopes out of the way of ski traffic.
Best
for intermediates: Serre Chevalier
This is the collective name for a dozen villages along the
road from the ancient garrison town of Briançon in the southern Alps, sharing a
ski area with a respectable 250km of varied but mainly intermediate slopes served
by 62 lifts.
Think of Serre Che as the laid-back, country cousin of
A-list resorts further north, such as Val d'Isère or Courchevel – a bit smaller
and a bit less hi-tech, but also friendlier, more relaxed and with bags more
Gallic character. Pick of the main villages is Monêtier Les Bains, a
picturesque spa resort that was popular in Victorian times – it’s quieter and
altogether more charming than Villeneuve and Chantemerle. If you're stuck on
the intermediate plateau, British ski school New Generation can help.
Where to stay:
Chalethotel
Charlotte is a former monastery that has been run for years by Ski Miquel. The
company has now bought the property and it has undergone a complete makeover.
Alternatives:
Les Arcs, La Plagne, Flaine,
and Méribel are good choices; all
have extensive blue and red runs that give you a feeling of having gone
somewhere each day, rather than repeating the same slopes.
Best
for advanced: Val d'Isère
The resort is spread along a
high, remote valley and shares the giant Espace Killy ski area with
neighbouring Tignes. Val d'Isère divides into a number of sectors, from the
central hub at the base of the main Solaise and Bellevarde lifts to the quieter
outposts of La Daille, Le Laisinant and Le Fornet.
As in any major holiday
destination in the Alps, the vast majority of them of them are intermediates,
so you don't have to be advanced to enjoy yourself here. But if you are, you
will – particularly if you invest in expert guidance to make the most of the
challenging terrain, both on and off piste. Few world-class resorts have such
variety. Progression
Ski is a British-run school with the full range of group and private ski and
snowboard lessons. Instructors are experts and extremely friendly.
Where to stay:
Aspen Lodge is a smart
apartment block, centrally located on the main street, with suites of various
sizes and a full concierge service. It's convenient for the slopes as well as
shopping and nightlife.
Alternatives:
Chamonix has some of the most demanding terrain in the
Alps.
Best
for charm and romance: St Martin-de-Belleville
French resorts major on convenience rather than charm, so
attractive villages with large ski areas are notable by their absence. St
Martin, the prettiest and quietest destination in the giant Trois Vallées ski
area, is an exception.
An old cheese-making centre below better known Les
Menuires in the Belleville Valley, St Martin has raised its traditionally
sleepy profile in recent years. It offers a radically different experience from
neighbouring Trois Vallées resorts and will bore the pants off party animals –
but that's how its growing band of fans likes it.
A fast gondola and a chair take you up to the ridge above
the Belleville and Les Allues valleys. From there you can head over to Méribel,
Les Menuires and the rest of the Trois Vallées, or coast back down the local
red and blue runs to St Martin.
In the village, modern architecture respects the old
farmhouses and 17th-century church. La Bouitte in the adjoining hamlet of St
Marcel has two Michelin stars.
Where to stay:
Abode is an ancient Savoyard farmhouse that has been
lovingly converted into a chalet for eight people.
Alternatives:
Megève has horse drawn sleighs and an attractive resort
centre; little-known in the Maurienne Valley is rural France at its simplest
and most delightful.
Best
for partying: Méribel
There's no denying that the thousands of international
visitors who migrate to the geographical centre of the giant Trois Valleés ski
area each winter know how to party in style – along with a few French.
A branch of the fast spreading French on-mountain après
experience La Folie Douce, at the mid-station of the main Saulire gondola, gets
loud at 3pm with a DJ and tabletop dancing. The clientele tend to migrate after
5pm to The Rond Point, aka The Ronny, just above the main village and the
must-visit après venue. It has a 4pm-5pm happy hour, live bands and a
fantastic, up-for-it atmosphere. On a good night, you could be crowd surfing by
6pm. Alternatively, Jack’s Bar has comedy and occasional live bands, Le Poste
de Secours is one of the smartest bars in town and Barometer has a pleasant
English pub atmosphere. Later on, La Taverne and Le Pub are good warm-up spots
for the main clubbing action even later at Dick's Tea Bar or Le Loft.
Méribel's local slopes are extensive and mainly
intermediate. They give easy access to the rest of the Trois Vallées ski area.
The resort also has an unrivalled selection of
good-quality chalets, although wickedly high prices have led to a sharp fall in
the overall number visitors in recent years.
Where to stay:
There’s a huge choice of accommodation and operators here.
Alternatives:
In the country that gave après ski its name there is
remarkably little of it. Les Deux Alpes and Chamonix are livelier than most
resorts and do their best to redress this with a more extensive range of bars
and late-night entertainment.
Best
for families: Les Gets
With its village nursery
slopes, pedestrian-friendly centre and road train shuttle, this village in the
giant 650km Portes du Soleil ski area makes an ideal base for families. There's
a huge choice of good accommodation including child-friendly chalets with
nannies, and Les Gets itself is a pleasing mixture of old Savoyard chalets and
more modern wood-and-stone buildings constructed in keeping with their
beautiful Alpine surroundings. The only drawback is its modest 1172m altitude,
which means that snow cover is not necessarily reliable at village level
throughout the season. However, there are more nursery slopes up the mountain
at Chavannes, as well as the American Indian themed Grand Cry fun park.
Kindergartens include Les Fripouilles, which caters for children from six
months to four years.
Where to stay:
A short walk away from the pistes, Chalet Les Chats Bleus sleeps
13 and has family suites with separate bedrooms and a shared bathroom.
Alternatives:
La Tania in the Trois Vallées is car-free, although
families with little ones need to be wary of skiers speeding down the main drag
towards the gondola. Vaujany is an unspoiled village linking into the Alpe
d'Huez ski area with no through traffic and a fine crèche.