The
Amalfi Coast, a 43-mile stretch just around the bend from Naples, is on many
traveler "to-do" lists. Despite overcrowding at the peak of summer,
visitors come for the promise of relaxation, fine dining, plush inns, and
vistas made famous by Hollywood. Escaping the crowds and finding your piece of
paradise isn't impossible---it just takes a little bit of planning.
When
to Go
The
Amalfi Coast is not at its best in summer, when coastal towns swell with
vacationers and the heat is often sweltering. Optimum times are May-June and
September-October. Visiting in winter is an appealing option---the temperature
remains comfortable, rain is relatively rare, and hotel rates are at their
lowest. However, be aware that some hotels and restaurants will not be
open---always call ahead or check hotel web sites (if available).
Getting
Around
Planes,
trains, and automobiles, ferries, hydrofoils, and buses. On the Amalfi Coast
the options are endless.
Choosing
a Base
First-time
visitors to the Amalfi Coast are often unsure where to stay.
The perfect spot for your trip depends largely on your priorities and budget.
Positano is popular for its central
location, its restaurants
and jaw-dropping beauty. Despite these charms, some might find the peak season
crowds, prices, and stairs overwhelming. Honeymooning? Grab a top-floor suite at
Le Sirenuse.
The Villa Rosa is one of Positano's
best values.
Ravello is an enchanting village
perched on a ridge high above Amalfi and the neighboring town of Atrani. Ravello
is relatively out of the way and the bulk of its visitors come during the day,
leaving the nights gloriously quiet. There are several hikes in the area---even
down to Amalfi. For pampering, the Palazzo Sasso
is hard to beat. For tranquility, the inexpensive La Fenice
is just right.
Sorrento is convenient for visitors
pairing the Amalfi Coasts with a stay in Naples,
situated just across the way. It also marks the start of the 43-mile infamously
winding coastal road that runs to Salerno. There are several attractively
priced inns in Sorrento
for those trying to save; we recommend Relais
Palazzo Starace. Splurging? Dip into the pool at Excelsior
Vittoria.
Amalfi
is the
Amalfi Coast's largest city, but it's still small enough to feel intimate. It
is a convenient base for excursions to Capri
and the Grotta dello
Smeraldo. Amalfi
is romantically situated at the mouth of a deep gorge and its Duomo
is impressive. There are two romantic village annexes at the luxurious Santa Caterina. Perhaps
the best bargain in Italy can be found at the Albergo
Sant'Andrea.
Planning
Your Days
A
trip to the Amalfi Coast can be as busy or relaxed as you wish it to be. More
ambitious day trips to Pompeii and
Capri are doable---just be sure to leave plenty of space in your itinerary for
sipping limoncello and staring at the water. Below are a few excursion options
sprinkled with restaurant recommendations.
Spend
the day in Capri, being sure to escape the crowds by heading to Anacapri,
the island's "second city," about 3 km from Capri Town. Ride a
12-minute chairlift ride to the highest point on Capri, Monte Solaro.
Tour one of the island's swankiest residences, the Villa San
Michele. Enjoy an early dinner at Da Tonino.
From
shopping to sights, there is much to keep you busy in Positano. For a relaxing
afternoon, take a small boat to the Spaggia di Lauriot, a small cove perfect
for swimming. Da Adolfo,
a restaurant just above the beach, should satisfy any midday cravings. At the
dinner hour, head up to Montepertuso,
a hamlet high over Positano, for fine dining at either Donna Rosa or Il Ritrovo.
From
the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii is an easy day trip---especially if you're based in
Sorrento. From there, a Circumvesuviana
train makes the 30-minute ride to the Pompeii-Scavi stop, a stone's throw away
from the ruins' entrance. Expect to spend four to five hours at the site. On
your return to Sorrento, recover from the day's excursion with a mellow meal at
Trattoria da Emilia.
Concert
enthusiasts will want to make Ravello a top priority. The small town is famous
for its classical music festival, Festival Musicale di Ravello.
The concerts, many of which are held in the gardens of the Villa Rufolo,
have become so popular that the festival season stretches well beyond the
summer. Fill up at Cumpà Cosimo
after browsing several of the many ceramic shops.
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